Endearing Antigua

After moving to Guatemala, the question I get asked most often is (naturally), "Why Guatemala?" At first, I wasn't specifically looking to land myself here. After leaving Spain, all I knew was that I wanted to go to another Spanish speaking country. I looked at several countries in Central and South America, and in the end, finding a job at UPAVIM pushed me in the direction of Guatemala. So it wasn't a dead-set vision of coming to Guatemala that brought me here, but over the course of my first year here, I came to love it. Traveling around Guatemala introduced me to the country's captivating culture. Living in La Esperanza and meeting so many wonderful women and children exposed me to the warmth of the Guatemalan people.  And my every day life in the city manifested Guatemala's similarity to the Philippines -- from city and provincial life to government and politics to quotidian habits; I've lost track of how many times I've said to others, "Just like in the Philippines." Through all this, I've found a surprising feeling of home in this country.

More so, expat life in Guatemala is... interesting. I am here on a tourist visa; a 90 day visa upon arrival in the country, which can be renewed in the City for another 90 days, after which I have to leave the country, and upon returning, get a 90 day visa and the process starts all over again. The ease at which I can stay (and legally work as a teacher) earns Guatemala more plus points. When I was living and volunteering in La Esperanza, being a foreigner meant a (somewhat unfair) unspoken protection (as gangs there were less likely to target foreigners). Being a foreigner also meant getting asked for money. For some people in La Esperanza, foreigners = money, and they weren't shy in asking for donations or monetary help. In some local markets, foreigners sometimes pay the "gringo price," an inflated price vendors tell you when they see that you're a foreigner. While I do understand the concept behind this, say for example, a tourist visiting from the U.S. and paying a higher rate for museum entrances, it gets difficult when you're living and working in Guatemala, and earning a Guatemalan salary.

I've been lucky enough not to get overcharged for many things (perhaps my physical features allowing me to pass of as a local, although when I open my mouth many are quick to point out that I clearly have a Spanish-from-Spain accent), although in general, living in Antigua is not cheap. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city is more beautiful than words can describe, but it made it a hotspot for Spanish schools, boosting tourism, and thus, prices. It's an equally attractive place for expats to settle down in, which also boosts prices, keeping the cycle. I don't complain too much, because one thing that brought about was an influx of international cuisine in Antigua, which has been heaven for a food lover like me. When it comes to housing, it's hard to find an affordable place in town. Rooms and houses get cheaper as you radiate away from the center, and there are lovely houses in the towns nearby, which isn't too bad, except you then need a vehicle to get around.  I have a small room right on the edge of town, choosing to remain within walking distance of everything, because, for lack of being eloquent, and as repetitive as it sounds, Antigua is just so beautiful.

One of my favorite things to do is just wander the streets of Antigua. The city is small, and I've been up and down the streets countless of times, but every time I walk outside, I can't help but marvel at its beauty. The cobblestone streets were somewhat tricky at first, but my feet have long become accustomed to it. The colorful walls and old facades remain, and it's funny to see some fast food joints on the other side. Every time I pass a boutique hostel I take a peek at the lovely courtyard. Every other corner is picturesque; there are days when I take the exact same shot as before, because there's a seemingly new beauty to appreciate.

Antigua was quick to capture my heart, and the laid back vibe I feel here pulls me to stay. Sharing below a few pictures of charming Antigua, if you'd like to see.

A popular spot in Antigua is Cerro de la Cruz. Located in the north part of the town, it's a short 10-15 minute walk up (there are steps), and you're rewarded with a beautiful view of Volcán de Agua and Antigua.

Chris and I love to go up early on Saturday mornings when it's less hot and there are fewer people.

Near the center of town (the center of which is aptly named Parque Central or Central Park), is Calle del Arco or Arch Street. On this street you'll see the famous Santa Catalina Arch that graces many postcards, guidebooks, souvenirs, and what not. On a good day, you can get a perfect shot of the arch with Volcán de Agua behind it. 

Spread around the city are several churches, each with its own unique charm. There's the Catedral de San José located on one side of Parque Central. On its façade you'll often see pigeons perching, and behind there are ruins to explore.

My favorite church has to be La Merced, with a beautiful façade that always makes me stop and marvel. On weekends, the plaza next to it is teeming with vendors selling delicious street food.

Another lovely church is San Pedro, which recently received a fresh coat of yellow paint. It's fun to spot it from afar, and it sits next to Tanque la Union (in the picture after).

Tanque al Union is a small long park, and one end sits the old pilas, which is a concrete structure where women wash clothes. While it's always filled with water, I didn't know they were still used until I saw them being used one Saturday back.

There are many old structures and ruins around town, which are well preserved, the city being a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Another popular one is the ruins of El Carmen, outside and adjacent to which is an artisanal market.

These ones below are next to the Spanish Cultural Center.

Speaking of the Spanish Cultural Center, it's a lovely space in Antigua which always has free exhibits.

Once in a while, I go inside to wander the grounds and check out the exhibits.

Every now and then, there will be events going on around the city, whether it be live marimba music in the park or a celebration of a particular holiday. Last November, there was a flower festival held on one weekend, and it was gorgeous. The fountain in Parque Central was decorated with flowers:

One street was blocked off to traffic and there was a photo and painting exhibit of flowers:

Calle del Arco was blocked off to traffic as usually happens on the weekends, but was also decorated with floral installations on the windows and in the middle of the road. The streets were packed and it was hard to move through the crowd as they day wore on, but it was a beautiful and festive atmosphere to be a part of.

They also had some lovely artwork up with quotes and drawings that you could take pictures with.

"Let life do to you what spring does to flowers."

At the La Merced plaza, in addition to the usual food stalls there were several stalls selling plants and flowers, in line with the theme of the event.

The small area in front of La Merced made the already beautiful church even more beautiful.

And the small fountain at Parque San Sebastian was overflowing with flowers and probably one of my favorite decorations of the festival.

That's just a little snippet of Antigua. There are still more ruins to visit, more places to explore, more events to witness. Antigua is an endearing little city that I haven't gotten tired of, and I hope I never do.

P.S. It's easy to take nice pictures because Antigua on its own is gorgeous. But most of the photos were lovingly taken and edited by Chris. :)